Seeking Buddha in unexpected places – Firstpost

Nalanda, Sarnath, Sanchi, Bodh Gaya, Ajanta…these are some of the names that come to mind when one thinks of Buddhist heritage in India. While the states of Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Bihar, Odisha and Madhya Pradesh are rich in ancient Buddhist monuments, on the occasion of Buddha Purnima it may be interesting to explore some less-known Buddhist sites. These are sites that are seen in the most unexpected places, in states known for anything but Buddhist history.

Khambalida (Rajkot, Gujarat): In a land filled with famed Hindu and Jain temples, lies a hidden Buddhist cave site. The drive to the caves at Khambaliya goes through very scenic country, which becomes especially lush after the rains. The carpet of green extends on both sides of the road, occasionally punctuated by a cluster of houses. This place is well off the beaten track and village folk always look mildly surprised to see anyone heading towards the caves.

Discovered only in 1958, the three caves here are dated to the 4th – 5th century CE period. The caves are built at a point where the ground falls away towards a stream, giving the site a cliff-like effect. If a visitor were to chance upon the place early morning during the monsoon, he would be delighted to see the place virtually overrun by peacocks.

While the caves are unremarkable from inside, flanking the entrance of one of them are two life size figures representing Avalokiteshwara Padmapani and Avalokiteshwara Vajrapani, prominent Bodhisattvas of the Mahayana form of Buddhism. They are striking representations of the figures and their remote location in the lap of nature makes the trip worthwhile.

Kolvi – Hathya Gaud – Binayaga (Jhalawar, Rajasthan): In a district known for a UNESCO World Heritage site fort and several temples, a remote corner is home to a clutch of Buddhist sites where monks lived and practiced their faith for centuries. As a result, there are as many as three cave complexes in the hills here, built between the 5th and 8th centuries CE.

At Hathya Gaud, there are five caves, one of which has a vaulted roof and another that contains a well-shaped stone pillar. In records of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), a stupa is mentioned here, but little of it remains. Close by is the Binayaga hill whose southern face has as many as twenty caves. These resemble small cells for the monks to stay in. As a visitor steps in, one can imagine a monk at prayer in this tranquil setting.

The highlight is undoubtedly Kolvi. Over fifty caves have been carved out of the laterite hill. Many of these are shaped like stupas and have chaitya arches, elongated domes, niches containing images of Buddha and pillared porches. Within the labyrinth-seeming cave complex are some lifelike images of Buddha, sitting in dhyana mudra in caves. When a visitor enters such a cave, he is startled for an instant thinking there is a human figure within and then he sees the much-eroded outline of a Buddha. The figure here has been in meditative posture for more than a thousand years.

Chaneti (Yamunanagar, Haryana): Much older than the sites mentioned thus far is the stupa at Chaneti, in rural Haryana. It has been dated back to the 3rd century BCE, in the reign of Emperor Ashoka. According to historians, this site was visited by Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang who described it as having numerous stupas and a monastery, indicating a thriving Buddhist centre. Interestingly, the village of Topra – original site of an Ashokan pillar with his inscription – is in the same district. The pillar itself was moved to Delhi by another ruler, of the medieval era.

The stupa is all that remains of what may have been a large Buddhist community here. It is made of brick and is one of the largest surviving ones in north India. In design, it is said to be similar to a stupa in Taxila (now in Pakistan). Unlike many other stupas, it has no railing outside, indicating that if a railing had ever existed, it could have been of wood. As per the website of the district administration, concentric layers were put one over the other to build it, giving it a hemispherical look and four shrines were added in all directions near a ‘Pradakshina Path’ around it. These last additions were possibly done during the Kushana era, which marks that the site remained significant for centuries.

Sonari (near Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh): It is sometimes believed that Sonari as a name mutated from ‘Suvarnari’ meaning a golden wheel. In Buddhist mythology, the Buddha is described as a Mahachakravarti who was guided by a thousand-layered golden wheel travelling in all directions and stopping to teach right conduct on the way. Some archaeologists believe that Sonari may once have such a golden wheel on a pillar but no such icon remains here now.

What does exist are a group of stupas, including some that are curiously built in a row, with uniform spaces between them. They are built on a hill, affording lovely views around. The stupas had railings around them but these no longer stand, with only fragments being found. Inscriptions from the ruined railing of the first stupa indicate it was built in Emperor Ashoka’s reign.

In 1851, while searching the inner chamber of the second stupa here, Maj Gen Alexander Cunningham – who later went on to head the ASI – found three miniature relic caskets, two in soapstone and a third in rock crystal. The caskets have inscriptions giving names of Buddhist monks – Gotiputra, Majhima, Kashyapagotra, Kosikiputra and Alabagira. It is assumed that their relics are contained within. Sonari also has remains of monasteries – perhaps some of these monks lived and prayed here.

Each of these sites has a history of its own, but there is also a deep similarity that runs through them like a common thread. Even today, each site is in splendid isolation, the nearest settlements being villages and that too at some distance. Imagine how isolated they may have been in their prime! And think of monks praying in these peaceful settings. When a visitor leaves these places, he goes back with a small bit of that peace in his soul.

The author is a heritage explorer with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.