Temples, havelis and baolis – Firstpost

A few days ago, Jaipur saw its annual surge of visitors to the Lit Fest. They came in hordes, heard and met the men (and women) of letters, explored the lovely city and its heritage. And then they left. Or at least, most did. An intrepid few would have hung on for a bit longer and spent time walking through Jaipur’s layers of architectural heritage.

Not all of Jaipur’s built history basks in the glory of World Heritage status. Several parts are little visited, and not necessarily because they are hidden. The reason is a shade more prosaic —they lie in the shadows of grander monuments which have a magnetic attraction. Perhaps no stretch is more accessible, yet less seen, than the old city of Amer which lies en route to the fort-palace of the same name. Here are some nuggets from that little visited zone and the area around those hills:

1. Chanwar Palkiwalon Ki Haveli: Ask some person, even a tourist guide for this haveli, and the chances are that you will get a blank look. Here’s a tip – ask for the Anokhi Museum of Hand Painting and you will find the place. This wonderful museum is housed within a 16th century CE Rajput haveli which was once owned by a military commander in service with the ruler of Amer.

In the 1970s, the haveli – quite dilapidated by then – was purchased by John Singh, who has contributed in so many ways to Jaipur. A restoration project beginning in 1989 saw the structure lovingly restored to its old glory. In 2000, the haveli won a UNESCO award for cultural conservation. The place found its raison d’être in the mid-2000s when John’s son Pritam and his wife Rachel founded the museum here. A visit to the place reveals a masterclass in heritage restoration that can be an example to follow. If only one desires to follow it!

Walking through the museum shows the wealth and variety of Rajasthan’s textile craft, with resident artisans ever willing to give a live demonstration.

2. Jagat Shiromani Temple: Built between 1599 and 1608 under the patronage of Queen Kanakwati, the magnificent Jagat Shiromani is arguably Jaipur’s finest temple. Dedicated to Krishna and Radha, it is entered via a doorway flanked by two stone elephants. The temple resembles a mix of architectural design. The mandapa has fine lines, elegant pillars combining with chhatris above in a classic Rajput style. Some windows have stone lattice work in the form of jaalis, which remind a visitor of Mughal buildings. The sanctum — both inside and outside — is richly carved, with rows of marching elephants, dancing figures, demonic faces and more.

Kanakwati was the wife of Amer’s ruler Man Singh and it is said that she built the shrine to commemorate her son Jagat Singh, who died young. Meera bai also forms an intrinsic part of this temple. Legend has it that the Krishna idol within was the very same one Meera bai worshipped and it was brought and re-consecrated here during the period when Mewar (from where Meera bai hailed) went to war with the Mughals. This was, of course, a time when Amer’s rulers were in service with the Mughals.

3. Ambikeshwar Mahadev Temple: Considered by some as the oldest extant temple in the region, this is dated to the 10th – 11th century CE. Legend has it that a ruler of Amer was told that a cow gives milk only at one specific spot each day. When that spot was dug up, a Shiva linga was unearthed. It was at this spot that the Ambikeshwar Mahadev Temple came to be built. The same legend also holds that the name ‘Amer’ came from this shrine. The complex was added to over time.

4. Kalyan Ji Temple: The Kalyan Ji shrine close by also stakes a claim to being the oldest shrine of Amer. Adding substance to that claim is the nature of the rich carving its exterior bears, a sign of the 10th – 11th century period. It’s mandapa was renovated in the 16th century CE though. Adding to the debate on the oldest shrine is a second shrine called Kalyan ji. However, this one is permanently closed and a cowshed has been built against one wall.

5. Badrinath Temple: Standing on a hill that gives a bird’s eye view of the old city of Amer, the Badrinath Temple also claims to be from the 11th century period. Managed by the Aadi Gaur Brahmin Moortikar Kalakaar Sanstha, the inside of the complex has traces of elegant frescoes depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

6. Panna Meena Ka Kund: There is more to Amer than its temples. When the place was in its prime, wealthy merchants and their caravans as well as warlords and their forces rode through the city to pay tribute to the ruler. En route, one of the places they stopped off to refresh themselves was the Panna Meena ka Kund. The 16th century stepped tank is one of the few well-maintained structures in this part of Amer, and its yellow-cream symmetrical steps attract visitors seeking a memorable picture.

7. Nahargarh baolis: In a region that was semi-arid in the medieval era, it was natural to see considerable effort to build structures related to water. Two such baolis, both visually stunning, lie just outside the fort of Nahargarh, on the other side of the hill from Amer. One of these featured in the popular film Rang De Basanti. What tourists missed, Bollywood popularized!

8. Sagar Kund: One water related structure that remains obscure is behind the Amer hill. The Sagar Kund, surrounded by Amer’s battlemented walls, is the heritage zone’s most peaceful spot. A ubiquitous temple is nearby, albeit sans any historical importance. The battlemented walls move upwards from the kund, extending their protective presence across the hills. A short climb brings a visitor to old watchtowers. Monkeys are everywhere, the only living presence on these silent walls.

There is much more hidden in the folds of the Amer hill complex. Temples and water-related structures take primacy, one offering spiritual solace and the other a source of life-giving liquid. At some distance are the remains of the habitation of Khor, a city that is said to predate Amer.

In 1727, the creation of the planned city of Jaipur brought the story of Amer to a pause. In 2013, Amer’s hill fort achieved UNESCO World Heritage status, along with five others from Rajasthan. In 2019, the city of Jaipur achieved the same World Heritage status. Amidst this celebration of history, the quiet walls of Amer’s old city still stand, ready to share their stories with any visitors who care to visit them.

The author is a heritage explorer by inclination with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.