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The hidden heritage of ancient Yogini temple in Odisha – Firstpost

The hidden heritage of ancient Yogini temple in Odisha – Firstpost


On the sidelines of the recently concluded Pravasi Bharatiya Divas, several of the visiting Pravasis took part in heritage walks conducted in Bhubaneswar. In the process, they were able to view several elegant temples of the state capital, which collectively constitute the historic space called the Ekamra Kshetra. However, they are unlikely to have visited a shrine that is unique even by Odisha’s high standard of architectural marvels. The shrine, dedicated to the Yogini branch of the Hindu pantheon, is just outside the capital.

As per archaeological evidence, Yogini worship was done between the 9th and 12th centuries CE. Most Yogini shrines have been found in rural areas, often remote and scantily populated. Even if a village or town is in the vicinity, the Yogini shrine will invariably be located outside the area of habitation. Such shrines have been found in a zone that extends from central to eastern India, with key sites being in Madhya Pradesh’s Morena and Bhedaghat, outside the main temple complex in Khajuraho as well as in a village in rural Lalitpur (Uttar Pradesh).

In this context, it comes as no surprise that in Odisha too, the Yogini shrine is not within Bhubaneswar’s Ekamra Kshetra, but 14 kilometres outside the city, in a small village called Hirapur. This 9th century CE shrine, also called the Mahamaya Temple, was built under the patronage of a Bhouma dynasty queen. The first interesting aspect of the shrine is its design. In this, the Hirapur temple is far removed from the tall and stately temples of the Kalingan countryside. Unlike Odisha’s other magnificent shrines, this one has no mandapa, no vimana or shikhara, no ornate gateway. Conforming to the pattern of Yogini temples across the central Indian belt, the Hirapur one too is a circular roofless structure that looks rather plain on the outside but has space for ornate icons within.

The iconic circular Yogini temple at Hirapur

According to scholar and historian Vidya Dehejia, the Yoginis are essentially manifestations of the Mother Goddess and are Tantric in nature. Legend has it that when Durga was engaged in a mighty battle with the demons, and the army of the latter was overwhelming in numbers, various other goddesses emerged from the main form of Durga and joined battle.

The renowned 15th century CE Odia poet Sarala Das, in his Chandi Purana, reaffirms that sixty-four Yoginis were formed from different parts of Durga’s body, such as her cheeks, lips, ears, toenails, womb and even her voice and sweat. Each Yogini stands for a different quality of the Goddess and is symbolised by a unique weapon or mounted on a different creature. In Hindu iconography, the Yoginis are said to stand in worship around a form of Shiva.

When a visitor arrives at the temple in Hirapur, the outside gives little away. The structure is circular, built in the symbolism of a chakra which is important in Tantric worship. Its stone blocks are large and dark, almost black in parts. Katyayani icons are carved into niches on the outer wall, each of these standing on a human head with creatures on either side. One enters through a low gateway flanked by two dwarpalas. Occupying central space inside is a large stone block, with icons on its sides. This was the old shrine to Shiva.

Facing this block and running around the inner wall of the circle are the 64 Yoginis – almost as if they were standing around the central block, worshipping it. Made of black chlorite, there are small statues of Yoginis at regular intervals in the circle. Tara, Yamuna, Narmada, Varahi, Indrani, Vaishnavi and many others stand in that circle, their identification done based on their celestial vehicles or weapons.

The Yoginis of the Hirapur shrine built into the inner wall of the shrine

The goddesses are beautifully depicted as full-bodied women, with prominent breasts, wide hips, slender waists and full lips. Most are ornamented with depictions of necklaces, earrings, anklets and more. Some show evidence of damage, perhaps the result of an attack on the shrine. The idol in the middle of the circle is golden faced, its body wrapped in brilliantly coloured cloth. This is Mahamaya, presiding deity of the temple.

The Mahamaya icon – presiding deity of the Hirapur temple

The fact that these carved Yogini icons still exist in the temple is the second and perhaps most unique aspect of Hirapur. Barring another Yogini shrine at Ranipur-Jharial in Odisha and to some extent in Bhedaghat (MP), most Yogini temples are sans their statues – these have either been destroyed in medieval times or been a victim to antique smugglers in the modern era.

At Hirapur, not only do the Yoginis remain in residence, and have not been forcibly converted into ‘Pravasis’, but they are also in worship. Historians trying to piece together the story of this temple say that the place remained in use till the 16th century CE and then came a dark period where it was ‘lost’. Some believe that it was destroyed during an attack of the marauding Kalapahad, a Hindu convert to Islam who wreaked havoc on shrines in this part of India.

It is unclear whether locals continued to worship here, but it was only in 1953 that archaeologist and historian Kedarnath Mohapatra of the Odisha State Museum saw the huge blocks of the temple and work began on piecing it together, thus recreating the structure and putting in place the temple that we see today. A water body is nearby. The setting is tranquil. Priests go in and out of the temple, continuing traditions that date back a thousand years in this hidden gem of Odisha.

Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.



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